Three Coqs Brasserie, Interesting

Note: The Three Coqs Brasserie has now closed down

I have many biases when it comes to restaurant experiences and my worst one is being influenced by the people with whom I dine. Bear that in mind as I tell you that I visited the Three Coqs Brasserie recently for lunch with my friend Martin.

We chose a large main dish each, one glass of red wine for him, sparkling water for me and a dish of marinated olives.

Complimentary bread was brought to the table on arrival with a portion of butter. The bread was very nice and tasted home made, although there were only two slices.

I chose the roasted pigeon breast with parsnip purée and crispy bacon (£13) while Martin chose the Cornish hake fillet with roasted peppers, saffron braised leeks and land cress (£12.50).

Now, for the bias. We arrived for lunch at 1pm. The restaurant was mostly empty and we sat by the window although only I had the luxury of watching people pass by outside. The service was polite and efficient and the order was placed within a few minutes. The marinated olives arrived promptly and so did the drinks. Somewhere between 1pm and 1.56, however, the food had failed to arrive. I had chatted with a lady at the next table about the size of the dishes – too small, too expensive – and spent the rest of the moments so lost in conversation that I hadn’t realised the extent of the delay.

The waitress came to our table and apologised. The kitchen never received our food order so it was only about to be cooked. I should note there were only four tables which were occupied at this time of day. We received four pieces of bread and some more butter for our patience. The second batch of bread was also lovely.

The food arrived about 15 minutes after the apology and the portions were dainty and quite pretty. My dish was rich and felt like a little touch of Christmas with the smooth parsnip purée and the jus. The pigeon breast was quite chewy although it did not seem overdone, the meat still had a hint of pink. The bacon was wafer thin and crispy.

I tried some of the hake, pepper and leek as well and it was beautifully summery. Light and well seasoned. I almost wish I had chosen that one, it was delicious.

If the dishes had arrived on time, if we hadn’t snacked on the bread and butter and waited over an hour then the meal may have seemed rather meagre for the price. With unlimited funds, I would love to dine there again. I would order two more dishes at least and then finish with dessert as well. That would be my choice for a complete meal.

I found it enjoyable and I liked the food but would suggest you heed the warning on the website that the cost is between £25 and £34 per person. Not cheap but very nice, locally sourced and organic where they can be.

Three Coqs Brasserie, above Clifton Down Shopping Centre, Clifton, Bristol BS8 2PH | Tel: 0117 949 3030

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